The raglan technique allows us to crochet garments without seams. Start working from the neck and continue until you reach the size needed to separate the work so that we have two sleeves, the front and the back.
In today's tutorial I present you a cotton jacket made with trapeze raglan, with an anchor and a simple model made of groups of two double crochet stitches.
It is an elegant jacket, perfect for both, an office and a casual outfit.
The video tutorial has 4 parts. I have chosen to split it in order to come to your aid, to search for the needed details only in the part that you need. I tried to be as explicit as possible, but in case I missed something, I invite you to read the description of the garment, step by step below.
Have fun crocheting!
Jacheta crosetata – raglan trapez cu anchior – partea 1 – raglanul
Crocheted jacket - raglan trapezoid with anchor - part 2 - body
Crochet jacket - trapeze raglan with anchor - 3rd part - sleeves
Crochet jacket - trapezoid raglan with anchor - part 4 - edge and buttonholes
The jacket presented in the tutorial is the size M, but it can be adjusted for any other size. Everything depends on the raglan and how the stitches are calculated, which you will find in the first part of the tutorial.
Used yarns: Alize cotton gold (color code 98) and Alize sal simli (color code 28)
3 mm hook
I combined these yarns because I think that Alize sal yarn gives it a note of elegance, due to the metallic insert which makes this jacket suitable for any outfit.
Gauge
Alize cotton gold: 10 groups of models = 10cm, 12 rows = 10 cm
Quantity of thread used:
Alize cotton gold: 450gr
Alize sal simli: 20gr
Pattern used:
- the stitches must be multiple of 2, +1.
- two double crochet stitches in each second chain of the first row.
- two double crochet stitches in each group from the previous row.
HOW TO CALCULATE THE NUMBER OF STITCHES?
- crochet a sample with the pattern to use (this one from the tutorial or any other pattern you want)
- measure the circumference of the neck at its base, as large as you want it to be (not very large, because of the anchor). For the M size I measured that I need 50 cm circumference and calculating with the math rule of three simple I came to the conclusion that I need 90 stitches (ATTENTION !!! this stitche are for the complete circumference).
- Raglan stitches calculation formula: 90 full raglan stitches (without anchor)
- BACK = total number of stitches x0.33 => 90 × 0.33 = 29.7 => 30 or 29, depending on what the pattern requires
- SLEEVES = no. of back stitchesx0.25 => 30 × 0.25 = 7.5 => will have 8 or 9 depending on the pattern
- RAGLAN = 4 stitches
- FRONT (if not working anchor) = rest of stitches = 90-29-9-9-4 = 39
- so I came to the following scheme: 9 stitches for each sleeve (respectively 4 pattern groups) and 29 stitches for the back (respectively 14 pattern groups), 4 stitches for raglan => 51 stitches for beginning
THE RAGLAN
51 +3 chain stitches for the beginning of the row
Row 1:
- 1 double crochet in the 4th stitch.
- skip over 1 chain and work on the next 2 double crochet stitch.
- skip over 1 chain and work on the next 2 double crochet stitch.
- we repeat the pattern until the end of the row, in the last stitch we must have 2 double crochet stitches.
- we have 26 groups of 2 dc stitches
Row 2:
- we mark the 4 rays of the future raglan in the groups: 1, 6, 21, 25.
- starting with this row we add 1dc at the beginning of the row and at the end of it, for the anchor.
- 3 chain stitches (replace a double crochet stitch, represents the first stitch added for the anchor)
- In the group where we marked the first ray of the raglan we worked 1 double crochet , 1 chain, 1 double crochet.
- 2 double crochet stitch in each of the following 4 groups until the first marker
- In the group where we have marked the ray of the raglan we work 1 double crochet, 1 chain, 1 double crochet.
- 2 double crochet stitch in each of the following 4 groups until the next marker
- In the group where we have marked the ray of the raglan we work 1 double crochet, 1 chain, 1 double crochet.
- 2 double crochet stitch in each of the following 4 groups until the last marker
- In the group where we have marked the ray of the raglan we work 1 double crochet, 1 chain, 1 double crochet.
- we have 22 V-groups + 4 rays
Row 3:
- 3 chain stitches (replaces one double crochet).
- 2 double crochet in the first space (thus we add 1 stitch for the anchor and 1 stitch for the raglan).
- In the group where we marked the first ray of the raglan we make 1 double crochet , 1 chain, 1 double crochet.
- 1 double crochet in the first space, immediately after the raglan ray (for raglan increase).
- 2 double crochet stitch in each of the following 4 groups until the 2nd marker
- 1 double crochet in the first space, exactely before the raglan ray (for raglan increase).
- In the group where we marked the first ray of the raglan we crochet 1 double crochet , 1 chain, 1 double crochet.
- 1 double crochet in the first space, immediately after the raglan ray (for raglan increase).
- 2 double crochet stitch in each of the following 14 groups until the 3nd marker
- 1 double crochet in the first space, exactely before the raglan ray (for raglan increase).
- In the group where we marked the 3rd ray of the raglan we crochet 1 double crochet , 1 chain, 1 double crochet.
- 1 double crochet in the first space, immediately after the raglan ray (for raglan increase).
- 2 double crochet stitch in each of the following 4 groups until the 4nd marker
- 1 double crochet in the first space, exactely before the raglan ray (for raglan increase).
- In the group where we marked the 4th ray of the raglan we crochet 1 double crochet , 1 chain, 1 double crochet.
- 2 double crochet in the space after the 4th raglan ray (thus we add 1 stitch for the anchor and 1 stitch for the raglan).
- 1 double crochet in the first of the 3 stitches with which we started the row.
- we have 22 V-groups + 4 rays + 8 dc
Row 4:
- 3 ch
- 2 double crochet in the first space (thus we add 1 stitch for the anchor).
- 2 double crochet in the space before the first raglan ray.
- In the group where we marked the first ray of the raglan we make 1 double crochet , 1 chain, 1 double crochet.
- 2 double crochet in the space after the first raglan ray.
- 2 double crochet stitch in each of the following 4 groups until the 2nd marker
- 2 double crochet in the first space, exactly before the raglan ray (for raglan increase).
- In the group where we marked the first ray of the raglan we crochet 1 double crochet , 1 chain, 1 double crochet.
- 2 double crochet in the first space, immediately after the raglan ray (for raglan increase).
- 2 double crochet stitch in each of the following 14 groups until the 3nd marker
- 2 double crochet in the first space, exactly before the raglan ray (for raglan increase).
- In the group where we marked the 3rd ray of the raglan we crochet 1 double crochet , 1 chain, 1 double crochet.
- 2 double crochet in the first space, immediately after the raglan ray (for raglan increase).
- 2 double crochet stitch in each of the following 4 groups until the 4nd marker
- 2 double crochet in the first space, exactly before the raglan ray (for raglan increase).
- In the group where we marked the 4th ray of the raglan we crochet 1 double crochet , 1 chain, 1 double crochet.
- 2 double crochet in the space after the 4th raglan ray.
- 2 dc in the 1st space.
- 1 double crochet in the first of the 3 stitches with which we started the row.
- we have 32 V groups + 4 rays
- so each even row we add 10 V model groups (8 for raglan and 2 for anchor)
Odd rows: 5-21- we crochet the same as row 3.
Even rows: 6-20: we work as in row 4
SECOND PART OF THE JACKET
Put together the parts to create the armhole.
Careful!!! Turn back each end of the row. Starting with this row we will not increase for the anchor either, We will work straight for the jacket edge.
Row 22:
- We start with 3 chain stitches, we work 1 double crochet stitch in the first space, without increasing the number of stitches.
- we crochet the model up to the first raglan ray, including in the ray we make 1 model group.
- skip over the sleeve stitches
- we crochet 1 group of 2 double crochet sts in the 2nd raglan ray and we continue with the model on the whole back part.
- we crochet the model including in the 3rd ray raglan.
- skip over the sleeve stitches
- we crochet 1 group of 2 double crochet sts in the 4th raglan ray and we continue with the model on the second front half part.
- in the last group we crochet 1 group, without increasing for the anchor.
Row 23-53: we work the right model without increasing or decreasing the number of stitches..
Row 54: start to crochet the edge.
- put the Alize sal simli yarn too
- 1 ch
- 1 single crochet in the 1st stitch
- 1 ch
- skip over 1 chain and work on the next 1 single crochet stitch.
- 1 ch
- skip over 1 chain and work on the next 1 single crochet stitch.
- repeat until the end of the row
Row 55:
- 1 ch
- 1 single crochet stitch in the 1st space
- 1 ch
- 1 single crochet in the space made by the chain on the last row .
- 1 ch
- 1 single crochet in the space made by the chain on the last row .
- repeat until the end of the row
Row 56-58: We repeat the model with this combination of single crochet stitches and chain stitches to create that elegant edge of the jacket.
SLEEVES:
- crochet back and forth to keep the pattern.
- pay attention to what part of the jacket you start.
- we will make some decreasing at the underarm and then after the elbow.
Row 1:
- 3 ch at the midlle of the underarm
- 2 double crochet joined in the next space.
- 1 group of model V in each of the surrounding spaces around the sleeve until we reach the space before the 3 chains, where we will make 2 double crochet joined together.
- finish the row with 1 slip stitch
- we have 28 model groups, including the 2 groups of double crochet stitches joined together.
Rows 2-4:
- 3 ch
- 1 double crochet instead of the 2 joined
- 1 V model group in each of the spaces around the sleeve
- finish the row with 1 slip stitch
- we have 27 model groups, plus the 2 double crochet, + the 3 chain stitches at the beginning of the row.
Row 5-25:
- 3 chain stitches (we skip over the 2 double crochet and work once at the beginning of the row and once at the end of the row each 1 double crochet grouped with the 3 chain stitches at the beginning of the row to form a V)
- 1 V model group in each of the spaces around the sleeve
- finish the row with 1 slip stitch
- we have 27 groups
Row 26:
- 3 chain stitches 1 double crochet stitch in the first space.
- we skip over 1 double crochet stitch from the next group.
- 1 V model group in each of the spaces around the sleeve
- finish the row with 1 slip stitch
- we have 26 groups, + 1 dc
Row 27:
- 3 ch
- 1 V model group in each of the spaces around the sleeve
- skip over 1 dc
- 1 double crochet in the space before the chain stitches with which we started the row.
- finish the row with 1 slip stitch
- we have 26 groups
Row 28-29: we work normally in each of the 26 model groups.
Row 30:
- 3 ch
- 1 V model group in each of the spaces around the sleeve
- skip over 1 dc
- 1 double crochet in the space before the chain stitches with which we started the row.
- finish the row with 1 slip stitch
- we have 25 groups + 1 dc
Row 31:
- 3 chain stitches 1 double crochet stitch in the first space.
- skip over 1 dc
- 1 V model group in each of the spaces around the sleeve
- finish the row with 1 slip stitch
- we have 25 groups
Row 32: we work normally in each of the 25 model groups.
Row 33:
- 3 ch
- 1 V model group in each of the spaces around the sleeve
- skip over 1 dc
- 1 double crochet in the space before the chain stitches with which we started the row.
- finish the row with 1 slip stitch
- we have 24 groups +1 dc
Row 34:
- 3 chain stitches 1 double crochet stitch in the first space.
- skip over 1 dc
- 1 V model group in each of the spaces around the sleeve
- finish the row with 1 slip stitch
- we have 24 groups
Row 35-44: we crochet normally in each of the 24 model groups.
Row 45: we start the edge of the sleeves. We crochet the rows turning back at the end of each row.
- put the Alize sal simli yarn too
- 1 ch
- 1 single crochet in the 1st stitch
- 1 ch
- skip over 1 chain and work on the next 1 single crochet stitch.
- 1 ch
- skip over 1 chain and work on the next 1 single crochet stitch.
- repeat until the end of the row
Row 46:
- 1 ch
- 1 single crochet stitch in the 1st space
- 1 ch
- 1 single crochet in the space made by the chain on the last row .
- 1 ch
- 1 single crochet in the space made by the chain on the last row .
- repeat until the end of the row
Row 47-49: We repeat the model with this combination of single crochet stitches and chain stitches to create that elegant edge of the sleeves.
EDGE AND BUTTONS:
We start on the front of the jacket, the bottom right corner.
put the Alize sal simli yarn too
Row 1:
- 1 ch
- 1 single crochet stitch in the first loop.
- 1 ch
- 1 sigle crochet into the next loop.
- 1 ch
- repeat until the end of the row
- we finish the row in the bottom left corner of the jacket with 1 single crochet.
Row 2:
We split the right edge of the jacket from the end of the anchor down, so that we can make 5 buttonholes and put 5 markers next to where the buttonholes will be.
- 1 ch
- 1 single crochet stitch in the 1st space
- 1 ch
- 1 single crochet in the space made by the chain on the last row .
- we repeat the pattern up to the markers for buttons.
- 3ch
- skip over 3 ch
- 1 single crochet in the space made by the chain on the last row .
- we crochet 3 chain stitches next to the markers for buttons. Then continue the edge..
Row 3:
- 1 ch
- 1 single crochet stitch in the 1st space
- 1 ch
- 1 single crochet in the space made by the chain on the last row .
- in the 3 chain stitches we work 1 single crochet, 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet.
- between buttonholes we crochet normally
- repeat the pattern until the end of the row
Row 4-5: Repeat the pattern with this combination of single crochet stitches and chain stitches to create that elegant edge of the jacket.
FINISHING
- sew the 5 buttons.
- sew all remaining threads through the fabric.
A simple garment to crochet, without seams, which can be very elegant.
Have fun crocheting!
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